ZÜRICH's medieval town center sits astride both sides of the Limmat river and is lined with cafes, bars and trendy boutiques. On the east bank, is the austere looking Grossmünster where Huldrych Zwingli, father of Swiss Protestantism, began preaching in 1519. On a hill behind the church is Switzerland's best gallery, the Kunsthaus.Their collection of twentieth-century features works by Miró, Dalí, Picasso, Chagall, Klee and Kandinsky. The west bank is the site of most business and leading south from the station is the Bahnhofstrasse, one of the most prestigious shopping street in all of Europe.