JOHANNESBURG offers some fascinating museums, most notably the Museum Africa in Newtown, as well as excellent art galleries. The somewhat disturbing Apartheid Museum chronicles the rise and fall of apartheid not withholding from its nightmare of brutality. A number of the northern suburbs have a thriving café culture, which by the evening transforms to a lively restaurant scene. There some are unique shops with excellent contemporary African art and design, galleries and craft markets, striking buildings, and of course the townships, most easily explored on a tour.